Around the village

The Trixie Guide
to Mexican Food

Around the village, with a few worthwhile departures.

Freshly served street tacos with onion, cilantro and lime at a food stall.
Photo: Los Muertos Crew / Pexels.

When we were younger, going out in Lincoln Park usually ended with Mexican food. Someone would announce that she wasn't hungry, come along anyway, and start picking at everyone else's order. We'd put our little going-out bags on the table, move them when the food arrived, and get back to whatever had happened at the bar. There was always quite a lot to discuss. I remember those dinners as fondly as the evenings that preceded them, and sometimes rather more clearly.

These days we appreciate Rick Bayless. We make the reservation, order another course, and arrange the ride home before anyone has lost her coat. I also have a six o'clock workout, which has changed my feelings about staying out until three. My feelings about burritos are intact.

As the person who generally ends up choosing the restaurant, I'd like to save everyone a little time. Here are seven suggestions, depending on what sort of evening we're having.

01Lincoln Park

Angela's Burrito Style

2556 N. Clark Street · When the evening runs over

Angela's belongs in any conversation about food after the bars. Its posted Friday and Saturday hours run until 5 a.m., which is useful even for those of us who would prefer not to need it. The California Burrito Grande includes french fries, along with your choice of meat, cheese, sour cream and guacamole. Order with that information in mind.

Jill Martin remains very clear on the arrangements: “I want my own burrito. We can share the ride.”

Save the address before you go out. Finding dinner is easier when everyone isn't standing on Clark looking at a different phone. Give the girl who isn't hungry a minute with the menu.

02Lincoln Park

Allende Restaurant #1

2408 N. Lincoln Avenue · The Lincoln Avenue stop

Keep Allende in mind when you're near Fullerton and want tacos or a burrito without arranging your entire evening around dinner. For those of us who used to make these decisions after midnight, going in daylight can feel almost organized.

Our member Natalie has taken to picking up food on the way back from errands, putting it on actual plates, and inviting her sister over. “I put it on plates before my sister arrives,” she says. They are cooking less and seeing each other more.

03Lincoln Park

Tarascas

2585 N. Clark Street · When everyone has news

Tarascas is the sit-down suggestion for the girls who originally agreed to one drink and have since remembered six things they need to tell each other. Look at the chihuahua queso fundido, fajitas and tequila-sautéed spicy shrimp. Order some food before the second round; otherwise the conversation will carry us straight past dinner.

I like a margarita with reposado, fresh lime, very little sweetness and salt on half the rim, if the bar can accommodate it. Jill says this is why she orders first. I don't see the difficulty; the half with the salt can face me.

04Lincoln Park

Don Pez

844 W. Armitage Avenue · After an afternoon on Armitage

Don Pez gives you a reason to stay on Armitage for dinner instead of going home and starting the restaurant discussion again. The signature Baja-style fish taco is beer-battered catfish with sweet cabbage, pickled habanero and the house's special sauce; there's also a halibut option. Ceviche is another reason to look past your usual order.

This is a good stop for two friends who have already spent most of the afternoon together and aren't quite finished. I would put the shopping bags away first. I like being able to see the person I'm having dinner with, and occasionally we get a little carried away on Halsted.

05Lincoln Park

Old Pueblo Cantina

1200 W. Webster Avenue · An early dinner

Old Pueblo takes its direction from Sonora and Tucson. Start with a cheese crisp; the carne seca version has dried short rib, green chile and pico de gallo. There are homemade flour tortillas and blue-corn enchiladas, too. If you prefer a more specific margarita suggestion than mine, look at the cucumber-jalapeño Lobo Loco.

Happy Hora is posted daily from 4:30 to 5:30. This is information I now find quite exciting. You can have a proper catch-up, dinner, and still get home in time to do the things you said you were going to do before bed. Whether you actually do them is your business.

06Lakeview

El Nuevo Mexicano

2914 N. Clark Street · A little farther north, in Lakeview

El Nuevo Mexicano is beyond Diversey. Please tell visiting friends it's in Lakeview rather than implying that everything we like is in Lincoln Park. It's a useful choice when the group includes a vegan friend and everyone would like to choose dinner from the same restaurant's menu.

Natalie is firm about this: “If I'm inviting someone to dinner, I want her to have dinner.” The vegan choices include chorizo-potato enchiladas in salsa verde, tacos and fajitas. She can take her time deciding, too.

07River North

An evening with Rick Bayless

River North · Frontera Grill, Topolobampo and Xoco

Choose the evening before choosing the restaurant. Frontera Grill, at 445 N. Clark, is my suggestion for a full dinner with friends: think ceviche, wood-grilled dishes and enchiladas with mole poblano. Topolobampo, at the same address, is the tasting-menu evening to plan ahead. This is the one I reserve before I start discussing what to wear.

Xoco, at 67 W. Illinois, is the casual outing for tortas, churros and Mexican hot chocolate. If you're nearby and hungry, you don't have to turn it into an occasion.

I'm glad our dinners have become a little more varied. I enjoy getting dressed for Topolobampo, and I enjoy seeing a burrito arrive when I'm hungry. Send me the reservation details. I would still like to hear what happened at the bar.